Archive for The Sartorialist

New York Fashion Week Spring 2014 Calender

Posted in Art Nouveau with tags , , , , , , , , , , , on September 4, 2013 by James Field

 

NY-Fashion-Week-Scedule

 

Well it’s finally here!

New York is about witness another blitz of Runway shows, street style super stars ( I use that loosely), presentations, parties, after parties, and after after parties.Yes, its Fashion Week and I have the schedule here for all you crashers, photogs, and aspiring visionaries alike. I think the most exciting thing about Fashion Week for me, is the carelessness of it all, so to speak. Aside from Halloween, it’s one of two times a year that you can dress up like a moody, cross gender bending, space cadet and have your image immortalized by Tommy Ton or The Sartorialist. People tap into the eccentricity that is underlying within them, and present it for the world to see, during the years most fabulous events. I mean you can’t wear a Givenchy leather kilt, and carry a Pashli Satchel to the office everyday (talking to the guys) so it really does become a festival of free will, individuality, and pure creative alchemy.

So go forth New York in all of your splendor and chicness, the French will never take us seriously if we don’t STEP IT UP!

See you at Lincoln Center!

Scott Schuman

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , , , , , , , , , , on October 23, 2009 by James Field

Photography is a great hobby of mine that I am only beginning to scratch the surface of. One type of photography I truly love is Fashion Photography, and who knows that better than our Daily Honoree, Scott Schuman. The former showroom owner and Valentino Marketer, is the creator of the ridiculously popular fashion blog, The Sartorialist, which gets roughly over 120,000 hits a day. His photography of street style is amazing, he seems to always have the best lighting, awesome locations, and the coolest people. Scott is now currently the author of his very own book titled what else, “The Sartorialist”, and has also shot ad campaigns for DNKY as well as covered runway shows and photography for Style.com

Derrick Miller In The Sartorialist

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , , , , , , , on October 14, 2009 by James Field

This is a blog post done back in 2006 by Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist on Derrick Miller of the shoe label Barker Black. This post was done prior to my employment with Derrick as his Assistant, but I just love those guys so much and truly cherished my time that I was privileged to work at Barker Black. The brand has since sky rocketed to success and I am honored to say I was apart of it in my own small way.

Derrick Miller Of Barker Black

 

“Prior to The Sartorialist I owned a showroom that specialized in young womenswear designer collections. I represented designers like James Coviello, Peter Som, and Shelly Steffee; all of whom continue to be an important voices in New York’s design scene. When I first opened the showroom in 1999 there was such an optimistic feeling in the air. Every new designer felt they had a chance to make it really big, and several did (at least for a while), like Miguel Adrover, Daryl K., and Zac Posen. Then 9/11 hit and the bottom just fell out overnight. Since then it has just been different; opening a new design house felt a lot more risky. Recently a few young women’s designers have shown the talent for staying around awhile, like Proenza Schouler and Derek Lam, but it still isn’t the same.
Surprisingly, where I have felt that air of confidence is in menswear, and even more surprisingly, New York menswear. Maybe ,in part, that helped the creation of this blog. I’ve met and profiled several of these young menswear designers, and I’m so impressed with the unique vision each one has for themselves, and how they plan to develop a profitable business.

In meeting so many designers through my showroom, I learned a few things: prices can be adjusted, assortments can be refined, distribution can be managed, and fit can be altered, but vision, real vision, for a unique product cannot be faked, either you’ve got one or you don’t.

I kept thinking about vision after I met Derrick Miller, the creative director for the super hot shoe collection Barker Black. I didn’t get the sense he had grown up dreaming of creating a shoe collection, but when two investors bought out a traditional and very old English shoe manufacturer, they started looking for someone to help them revamp the image. Through a typical series of twists and turns they ended up meeting with Derrick, who at the time happened to be working at Polo (all American designers have to graduate from R.L.U., it seems like). When the opportunity presented itself, Derrick took the proverbial ball (or in this case shoe) and ran with it. He quickly redesigned the entire collection of ugly English shoes into a line of really, really cool ugly English shoes. He incorporated an authentic crowned skull and crossbones logo that he had found while doing his design research, and upgraded everything in the make and design of the shoes. One of the original details that he did keep, and seems quite amused with, is the funny little bump at the toe cap of the shoe. He has also complemented the shoes with his own, very personal, take on colorful ties and pocket squares. Now this is where the vision comes in; most designers would be thrilled to have the quick success Derrick has had, but he is just getting started.

Derrick gave me a quick preview of the new prototypes for the Barker Black clothing line. It looks really good; I begged, but no photos yet. It is a perfect extension of the brand. It’s modern but classic, suit based, and it fits into this new school of American design in that the overall fit is slim and the jackets are a little shorter, but there are enough specific design details that give it a very distinctive look. I can only imagine, that once he finished the design for the very first shoe he knew exactly what the entire look would be. The vision also shows up in how intelligently he talks about expanding the brand; which stores he does and doesn’t think he can be successful in, and how he chooses to promote the brand( no ads, no fashion shows, yet). It sounds so basic but you would be surprise by how many designers begin companies without these basic concepts in place.

To get a first hand look at Derrick’s work the first Barker Black store opened last October, it is a perfect jewel box of a space in one of Manhattan’s coolest neighborhoods, Nolita. Using old upside-down shoe lasts (from the Barker Black factory) for the display of the shoes was a stroke of genius.

I really can’t think of another designer that literally started at the bottom and worked his way up the customers body.

With designers like Barker Black, Thom Browne, Michael Bastian, Cloak, and Duckie Brown there is enough young talent in New York menswear right now to create a really special moment. Like the Belgians of the 90’s and the Japanese of the 80’s, for retailers to have a group to buy into and present as a movement in their stores will actually make it easier for these individual designers to succeed. I can’t wait to see how this whole thing plays out.”

 
Article courtesy of The Sartorialist

Art Of The Sartorialist

Posted in Art Nouveau with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , on August 26, 2009 by Erica-Jo

 

If you haven’t yet made The Sartorialist one of your daily views, favorites, obsessions, wtva;  I suggest you begin to embark upon that journey.

 INSPIRE

Images from The Sartorialist

Electric Blue

Posted in Uncategorized with tags , , , , , on August 22, 2009 by James Field

I love the intensity of this color, its such an awakening shade, and this gentleman wears it well. Notice he pairs them with neutrals to keep the color palette muted, keeping the emphasis on his pants.

Image Courtesy of The Sartorialist